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Blog Archive:- |
19th January - The Stirling Bomber...........
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Davie rejoined us today for an attempt at The Stirling Bomber (V,7) in Coire an t'Sneachda. Gary has been on this route a few times and recommended we give it a shot so by mid morning Davie was ready to start up the first pitch. The route was in perfect condition; all hoared up with just a little digging for gear placements, most footholds were snowed up too so just a few sweeps and it all became visible. Davie made easy work of the initial ramp line before thrutching his was up the narrow chimney and onto the tight belay. Gary then made his way back to the corrie to meet up with Graeme whilst I made my way upto Davie to tackle the awesome second pitch. A good shake out on the belay and I was off up the mixed chimney which was technical but very well protected with plenty of cams and wires being swallowed up the left hand crack line. Thin moves then led to a superb reach across to plant the turf and pull over onto the top, some final icy cracks then deposited me onto the second belay. Davie followed with as much of a struggle as me and we both collected some air miles on route but never-the-less this line has repelled a few strong teams in the past and it was good to complete on our first attempt. Graeme made good use of a half day and met up with Gary to climb Spiral Gully (II) with a variation finish which goes at grade III. They reported excellent snow conditions in the gully with some nice climbing up the rock rib to finish at the steep icy cornice. The weather was also fantastic today although initially a cold wind was whipping around the corrie until mid morning but by the end of the day it was blue skies all round. We were blessed with a full moon for the walk out swiftly followed by a well deserved pint!
18th January - The Seam is Awsome!
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Gary didn’t hesitate to recommend The Seam as a great and tough grade IV for our choice of route today and after a late(ish) start we were ready to start up the first pitch by 11.30. Several other teams were in the area; Neil and Dave were there climbing Invernookie (III,4) and a party of three were heading for the Seam-stress (IV,6) just to the left of our route. This all made for social belay stances and a little bit of rope trickery which felt a little like being in the Alps to be honest. Gary kindly left me the ‘good’ pitch which I have to say was superb sustained grade IV climbing, although today was pretty awkward to protect as all the cracks are now full of water ice and probably felt more like a technical 6 than 5. The weather was excellent and temperatures sitting around -2 at 900m, snow conditions were also feeling pretty stable with only a few patches of soft snow on NE aspects. Overall a great route and superb day out in the hills.
17th January – Fiacail Ridge
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Today Gary, Iain, Lynn and I went for a short day on the Fiacail Ridge (II). The ridge was in decent condition, fairly rocky with easy gear and axe placements all the way up. This made for a good introductory route for Iain as it was his first taste of Scottish winter mountaineering and also his first experience of freezing belays! We then walked around the corrie rim to point 1141 and retreated to Aviemore for celebratory cakes and tea – a great day out.
15th – 16th January – A Very Wet Cairngorm
The two Dave’s (one sliding head first back down!), Neil and I went to Cairngorm today to run over WML emergency rope work then walk over the plateau. It was good to run over these skills as it has been a while since needing to use them. The latest thaw has stripped all the buttress’ and taken a few of the ice lines. Some of the fatter ice lines have hung in there, such as Aladdin’s Direct although it looks very wet. The avalanche forecast had mentioned considerable windslab on Northern aspects but we found the pack to be very firm and well scoured, this was mostly due to the snow now being saturated with all the rain we have had and battered by very high winds. There is a hint of some cold weather coming through toward the middle of the week when we hope to get up onto the Ben and see what’s survived.
13th January
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I have been kept ‘in the loop’ over the last week with current conditions and ascents in the mountains; so here it goes..... It appears the thaw is now well and truly hitting the hills with allot of snow being stripped in the Northern corries. Neil reported that large patches of ground are appearing above the ski centre and allot of the buttress’s in the corries are looking black. One party on Pateys Route had a small accident yesterday and another heading toward White Magic area abseiled off after the first pitch. Some of the easier gullies appear to have been climbed although after walking into the corrie Neil decided nothing was worth the effort with the current avalanche risk. Today Neil and friends walked into a very windy Creag Meagaidh to practice WML skills and make use of a dull day. He told me the winds were gusting around 60mph mixed in with horizontal rain which made for a tiring and generally minging outing!
Last weekend Graeme and Steve made the long walk into Creag a'choire Etchachan and managed to climb Square-cut gully (V,6). They reported good climbing conditions with a very steep and strenuous pillar of ice producing the meat of the route, they also commented on snow conditions getting into the routes saying ‘careful route choice on approach and return required under current snow conditions’ – good pictures but I doubt if it will fully survive this thaw!
Other blogs from Mike Prescod and Zac Poulton indicate that West Coast conditions are just as tough with plenty of wet snow high up in the Coe and icy paths on route to Ben Nevis making getting around pretty arduous. I’m back in the hills for a week starting Saturday so with a bit of luck conditions will improve and we’ll manage to get some stuff done.
8th January - Chomping at the bit.....
I have been laid up for a while after having a small operation last week so apologies for lack of reports, I hope to back on the hill toward the end of the week. Plenty of snow about at the minute with small avalanches reported to have been triggered in the Northern Corries and quite a few patches of windslab on approaches to allot of the climbing locations - sticking to the buttress’s and ridges might be a good idea until it consolidates a little. I have one place available on an Intro to Winter Mountaineering course running from the 31st Jan to 2nd Feb, I will offer a 5% discount to anyone who wants to book. Please get in contact or fill in a booking form and return to me via email.
3rd January - A storm is approaching....
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It was pretty windy in the Cairngorms today. We experienced 50 mph gusts whistling around the corrie filling our jackets and hoods with spin drift – it felt like a real Scottish day out compared to the Alpine weather we have been having! Dave, Lynn and I decided on a short route in Corrie an Lochain to enable us to be up and down before the snows started and the winds got too fierce later in the day. We climbed The Milky Way (III) where we found good snow ice with only a few mixed moves and a little cruddy snow in places. Placing gear and digging out belays was the overriding effort today as there was a whole load of ice, rime and hoar frost covering all of the rocks from bottom to top not to mention a frosty cornice to negotiate at the exit. There were quite a few teams out braving the wind today; Savage Slit, The Vent and Ewan Buttress were all being climbed.
31st December - Last of the year!
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Today the Northern Corries were our choice for a short day’s climbing. So at 5 o’clock this morning Dave, Tam and I made good time up to the ski car park and then successfully arrived in Corrie an’t sneachda around 8.30. Our original plan was to climb The genie (V,7) but as we approached we could see that the buttress’s were black with little in the way of winter garb on them. So with no ice screws and a fat looking Aladdin’s Mirror Direct (IV,4) beckoning we decided to link the ice fall with Pygmy Ridge (IV,5) for a nice mountaineering day out. Davie lost the toss and proceeded to solo the icefall with only a ‘planted’ axe for protection before Tam followed and I struggled behind (bad mental prep I think...). We then traversed across the upper snow field before I got the superb meaty pitch on Pygmy then successfully onto the plateau. As expected the corrie was pretty busy today with large teams on Red Gully, Aladdin’s, Jacob’s ladder and The Runnel. A great way to end the year!
30th December - Tiso Winter Skills
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Today Tony and I were working on a Tiso Winter Skills course in the Ben Lawers area. We covered all the winter basics including ice axe arrests and boot / crampon work before putting it all to practice over a short journey. Everyone did really well and from what we gathered especially enjoyed throwing themselves down the snow slope to practice ice axe arrests! A very warm day in the mountains today with thawing at all levels and allot of slushy wet snow about. With a bit of luck this will refreeze next week and supply us with great climbing conditions.
27th December - Finnisg-Aig Falls
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Dave, Jenny and I decided to stay out of the wild weather high up and attempt a very wet Finnisg-Aig Falls on Aonach Mor. With an overnight thaw taking place the route was very wet but still delivered some interesting climbing up to about grade III. Dave very kindly left the last pitch to me where we decided to climb the steeper right hand section. Although pretty steep it felt about IV overall with chewy ice leading all the way to the top (not so good for screws though). Plenty of teams with the same idea today, as we arrived 2 climbers were topping out and three other teams of 2 and 3 followed in our footsteps. A nice little route that probably won’t last the thaw but the main sections may stay complete for the refreeze at the end of the week.
20th December - Up all night with Anie
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The temperature on the West coast is well below freezing. We monitored temperatures of below -10 throughout the day yesterday and this morning was no different as we once again struggled to get out of our sleeping bags! With this in mind we settled for a wander around Fort William and a huge bacon roll before heading back toward Tyndrum. Feeling motivated and psyched for a challenge we decided to avoid the lure of warm sleeping bags and journeyed into Eas Anie (IV,5) to attempt its steep falls through the night. Under a full moon we made steady progress into the route and by 2100 we were on the first (very wet) waterfall pitch. Duncan led through and delivered us at the bottom of the left hand steeper variant which I worked my way up via sections of good solid ice. Protection is very good but you have to search about for the thickest sections of ice and make sure you avoid the pouring water on the easier angled section to the left. Duncan then swept up the next steep pitch which left me with the final chandelier and the full moon top-out. What a great route which will certainly go down as one of the best winter experiences for us both to date.
19th December - Twisting in the Grooves
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Duncan and I decided to get up high today in search of some good conditions. After another leisurely start we walked into Stob Coire nan Lochan and climbed the two star Twisting Grooves (IV,5). We briefly spoke to Al Halewood who informed us it would be a stiff technical 5 under powder snow – which it was. Although the lower reaches had some very good frozen turf and a little neve the crux section was under powder where some ‘spicy’ moves above just adequate gear had to be performed. There were plenty of teams in the corrie, Chimney Route, Dorsal arête and Evening Citizen all being climbed as well as a couple of larger groups practicing winter skills. There is quite a bit of windslab building up in areas under the main buttress’s and a few large looking cornices to deal with on top-outs. Another great day!
18th December - Thin on The Screen
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After hearing about Mike Pescod climbing the Screen (IV,5) the other day Duncan and I decided to give it a look. As we approached there was a team backing off the initial wall of ice which didn’t fare well for our long haul up the slopes. We were pretty keen to make the most of our late start though and decided to start up the route knowing we could back off if necessary. A really long pitch later and a few pretty thin moves I was belaying Duncan up the steep ice. To be honest I found it pretty hard on the day, it was steeper than many of the IV’s I have done previously but more concerning than that was the lack of pro in the lead. I literally went 25 meters without any gear so it was ‘interesting’ climbing on the day. The paths are pretty treacherous to. Duncan found this out as he was trying his best to stop me slipping on the way up and accidently ‘cupped’ my groin in his efforts to stop me falling!
17th December - Skraeling was not to be....
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Today Duncan and I walked into Beinn an Dothaidh to climb the Skraeling (IV,5). The West Coast has had about 5 inches of snow over the last 48 hours and things are now looking pretty wintery again. Although the lines all look pretty full the snow is very powdery and should be given a chance to consolidate, we abseiled off after three pitches as the ropute was clearly not in condition. We were joined in our decision by a team on West Buttress (III) who were also finding things a little desperate. Glencoe tomorrow to chance some ice climbing.
15th December - Great conditions in the Coe
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Today Dave and I walked into Stob Coire nan Lochan to have a look at Innuendo (V,6). The route looked as if it would go but was very lean in the upper reaches so seems it’s a route I have wanted to bag for a while we decided to leave it for better conditions. Many of the mixed routes in the corrie are in the same condition with good but very sparse patches of snow; the turf is also well frozen. We decided to make the most of the day and solo a couple of easier classics. We started on Dorsal Arête (II) and after a quick decent down Broad Gully (I) joined another team in Boomerang Gully (II). Both routes are in superb condition with patches of neve and a small ice step in Boomerang. Another team arrived to climb Scabbard Chimney (V,6) but again it looked pretty desperate and we were unsure if they decided to attempt it or not, we certainly didn’t see anyone on it. The temperature was all over the place today and with a storm approaching things could get interesting underfoot later this week. Cornices had formed along the top of Forked Gully which looked quite ‘droopy’ over both exits, care must be taken over the coming days.
11th December - Dry tooling all the way....
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The thaw has certainly kicked in over the last 2 days leaving the hills looking bare and many of the buttress pretty black. This is due to change though with cold temperatures returning and forecast snow on the hills midweek, this should hoar up the wet mixed lines and consolidate allot of the snow left in the higher gully’s. Searching around for a route in condition we decided to play our cards safe and climb North Buttress (IV,4) on the Buachaille. There was little in the way of wintery conditions but we still donned axes and crampons and made use of the excellent mixed sport the route has to offer. First sight of the black looking route didn’t give much hope of an eventful day although Dougie kept us on our toes as he managed a cut nose and propelled missiles over the course of the day - we all have our mini epics! Winter 2010/11 has kicked off in great style this year, plenty of hard and new routes being reported over the last 2 weeks; fingers crossed this season will live up to last!
7th December - Pulling Plastic
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I have been training down the wall today as conditions were not the best for travelling North. Steve did manage to get out skiing though as he made a short journey to Glenshee. As you can see by the pictures the slopes are pretty loaded which will need to be treated carefully throughout the weekend thaw. The warm temperatures are sure to toughen up the higher ice lines and gullies but with high winds forecast this could make things interesting in the mountains. Take care if your out and about over the next week or so.
6th December - Too much snow!
I have had a few days down south visiting family and friends but today I returned to the winter wonderland in search of The Skraeling (IV,5), Beinn an Dothaidh near the Bridge of Orchy. Unfortunately it took me 3 and a half hours to get through all the snowed up icy roads and therefore concerned about getting back home tonight I decided to turn around – very disappointing but the right decision. Still plenty of routes getting done though, Graeme pointed Dave and Mark in the direction of Monolith Grooves (IV,5) in Arrochar. They reported well frozen turf and good gear placement on this less popular classic. Other popular routes including Finnisg-aig falls, Ease Anie and Peter Pan Direct have all been climbed although I can’t comment on their condition or quality. A small freeze/thaw cycle is set to take place later this week with colder conditions forecast to return by the middle of the month. (the picture was taken between Comrie and Loch earn Head)
1st December - North Face Car Park 6am -18 degrees
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We made an epic attempt to escape the heavy snow on the East coast in the hope of better driving and climbing conditions in the West. We certainly found better driving conditions but little in the way of good snow or neve to climb on. Plenty of dry tooling about though with teams on Lost in Place (V,5), Gargoyle Wall (VI,6), Glovers Chimney (III,4) and Carn Mor Dearg Arête (I). We spoke to the guys who climbed Lost in Place who said the top pitch was all rock with little in the way of the ice chimney described; the team on Glovers confirmed the same. Conditions have been extremely cold on the West though with temperatures dipping -18 as we left the North Face car park. We had plans for The Great Chimney (IV,5) but as we approached the route it didn’t look too appealing holding not a scrap of the white stuff. We decided to head up Tower Ridge via a gnarly traverse to the right of Lower East Wall Route (III). The ridge itself was spectacular with only the higher pitch causing ‘food for thought’ due to powdery graupel like snow conditions – it was however very cold especially when the wind picked up. Ice is certainly forming everywhere, we just need a few freeze/thaw cycles to set it all off!
26th November - Waist Deep
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Today I was out in the Cairngorms with John looking at basic mountaineering skills and snow craft. The plan was to put it all into action on the Fiacail Ridge (II) but as you can see by the picture (Second one down) it has been totally buried over the last 3 days. In fact getting around anywhere in the Northern Corries was a little epic with waist deep snow everywhere and spontaneous white out conditions for a bit of spice....the skiers looked like they were loving it though! Cold temperatures are set to last for another week or so which will hopefully toughen up the soft snow dumped over the last few days.
22nd November - First of the Season
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I have been making use of the indoor wall over the last few days but today Dave and I escaped to the Northern Corries where we were welcomed by great winter conditions and a near perfect ‘nick’ Original Route (IV,6). The mixed route takes in the leftmost line on Aladdin’s Buttress overlooking Aladdin’s Couloir (I). After initially climbing a short slab and corner the route travels through easier ground before steeper ‘steps’ are overcome with the drop into the gully tugging at your heels all the way. We had a slightly late start after losing some socks and ‘misplacing’ the guide book (as you can see by Dave emptying his bag in the corrie!) –a great route though and a fine way to start the season. The temperature is forecast for -4 on Wednesday which I’m hoping will continue over the weekend and into next week.
18th November - Gnarly in the Norrie’s
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It’s all go now as the winter seems to be here already, god knows where the autumn went! Today Dave and I made a determined effort to get into the Northern Corries to bag our first route of the season. We had our sights set on Original Route (IV,6) or Genie (V,7) but as we approached the corrie basin we couldn’t avoid the 80mph gusts. I’m sure the cold snap that is forecast for the coming week will be a welcome remedy to the soppy snow covering the crags at the minute.
5th November 2010 - Winter Courses
I will now be away for 10 days so there will be little blog over this period. I have taken several bookings for winter courses so please take a chance to have a look. In addition to the courses listed I run private bespoke days and weeks for customers who wish to develop a personnel itinerary and preferable location. For any further information on instruction or for group bookings please get in touch through my contact page.
3rd November 2010 - Sore Fingers On Barefoot
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After searching the country for a good spell of weather we managed to find dry(ish) rock only 20 miles away at Polney Crag, Dunkeld. Now that the trees have near enough dispersed of their leaves the crag is getting allot of wind and autumn sun which at first appearance made the crag look bone dry. However, the trees and greenery at the top of the crag are holding onto allot of water which has led to plenty of seepage particularly in the Nicotine rush / Groove area. We decided to warm up on Terminal Buttress (HS) before top roping and working the moves on the first pitch of Barefoot Beginning (E2 5c) – (Barefoot is on the left of Dave in the first picture). The delicate and thin slab was perfectly dry so after one top rope attempt I managed to lead the pitch with a desperate struggle near the top. I did however decide to pre-place the gear as I felt this particular route was dangerous for someone only really climbing E1 5b. Saying that, although very thin and delicate the actual climbing felt good and within my ability. Maybe a clean route for next year.....The day finished with an ascent of the superb End VS 5a.
